Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. However, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.
This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the proprietors utterly shocked.
“I am utterly shocked,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble shop earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.
The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.
Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.
It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.
It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.
Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.
“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.
Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.
Astrophysicist and space technology consultant with 15 years of experience in lunar mission planning and research.
